Leasing remains a popular financing method for driving a new car, with around 30% of new cars on the roads in the UK being on lease. If you’re thinking of getting a car on a lease, make sure you’re fully informed on what happens when the lease term comes to an end. 

To avoid incurring unexpected fees and costs, we’ll be discussing everything from what your options are at the end of a lease, what you need to do when returning your car and what to do if you don’t want to hand the car back. 

, is a long-term hire plan, usually only offered on new cars. It offers a reasonably cheap way to run a new car, with less hassle than buying and selling every three years. 

Leases are typically offered between 3-5 years, and as standard don't include the option to buy the car built in. 

What Can You Do At The End Of A Car Lease 

After you have driven and enjoyed your car for the 3-5-year lease period, there are a few steps you need to take to end the lease, these vary depending on the lease provider so make sure to check with your leasing company in plenty of time. 

However, you might be surprised to hear that handing the car back isn’t your only option come the end of your lease period, many leasing companies will allow you to extend your lease period or even buy the car from them. 

When it comes to knowing what to do and how to return a leased car, the option most people take is to simply hand the car back as agreed. This allows you to source a different car, via lease, finance, or purchasing. This option is the best if you want to change your car for something different. 

When returning a lease car there are often checks made by the finance company for damage, mileage etc. We discuss these in more detail later in this blog. 

What is Acceptable Damage for a Lease Car? 

The BVRLA sets out the guidelines for what is and is not acceptable “wear and tear” for a car on a lease or finance agreement. This document will be available through your lease provider, if not you may have to purchase it on the 

Small scuffs and scratches are acceptable, as long as they are under 25mm. The amount and extent of the damage should be in line with the age and 

 of the car, e.g. an old car with 100,000+ miles can have more damage than a newer model. 

Any trim or mouldings should be intact and not damaged, as should any wheel trims. Alloys are also only permitted to have scuffs under 25mm, but no serious curbing or damage. 

Tyres should have more than the legal limit of 

, and no tears, or rips of damage to the sidewalls. 

Seats and upholstery should be free of any major tears or rips, with only minor scuffs permissible. Any trim such as around the armrests, glove box etc should be free of scuffs. 

Minor scuffs to the steering wheel and gear knob are considered reasonable, depending on the age and mileage of the vehicle. 

The car should run and drive as it did when new, there should be no noticeable clunks, noises, or defects from the suspension, 

, or steering. Again, any minor defects the car does have should be appropriate to its age, although it should be able to pass an 

approved partners, and pay monthly with zero-percent interest financing

All lease terms include an inspection near the end of the leasing period, this is to make sure the car is in good working order, without any damage other than those listed above. If the car is deemed to have defects larger than wear and tear, you may be charged a fee. 

The fee schedule will be outlined in the lease documents, so make sure to do a thorough checkover of the car before booking an inspection, to save having to pay higher fees through the lease company. 

Most leasing companies will contact you within one to two months of your lease ending to book the inspection, so three to four months from the end of the lease is a good time to start inspecting the car. 

After the inspection has been completed, the car will need to be collected. You may need to budget some time off work for this, as you will need to be present. Collections are generally arranged up to 10 days beforehand. 

Yes, even if you agreed to a set period when starting your lease, most providers will allow this to be extended if you contact them before the lease is due to end. 

In some cases extending the lease period can reduce your monthly payments, so make sure to get in touch with your lease provider as soon as you can. 

This may be a good option for those that enjoy the car they have, and don’t want to have to exchange it for a new one. Look into the costs closely though, as new lease deals may be available that mean you can get a brand new car for the same amount as your extension costs per month. 

Can You Buy Your Car At The End Of A Lease? 

Some lease companies offer the option to buy the car outright. This can avoid the hassle of having to find and buy an unknown vehicle, as well as arranging for the lease car to be collected. 

The lease company will still want to do an inspection of the car, though. Buying the car is not likely to save you any costs you might expect to incur due to unrepaired damage. In fact, the lease company will probably charge you for this, and then still demand top money for the sale of the car. 

If you are yet to take out a lease, but think that buying a car at the end sounds like something you may want to do, then 

If you do want to buy your lease car when the term comes to an end, there are some pros and cons to consider before buying. 

When buying any car, there are always risks involved, these mainly revolve around how the previous owner/driver has kept it, fortunately, you know the previous driver! Assuming you have looked after the car and had it maintained properly, it is less of a risk than buying an unknown car from a dealer forecourt. 

However, some lease providers don’t want the hassle of selling a car to a member of the public, many simply auction off their old stock when the leases expire, as this doesn’t come with nearly as many consumer rights considerations. 

This means they may well want higher than market value to sell it to you, so make sure to check for comparable prices online before committing to buy. 

How to Save Money When Ending a Car Lease 

Now we’ve discussed the multiple options available to you when ending a car lease agreement, you may be thinking about which is the best decision for you 

. This depends on the individual circumstances, but we’ve put together some examples and our advice below. 

In this instance, your lease provider may well charge more than the going rate for repairs or touch-ups, so to save yourself some money, we would advise getting the car repaired by a professional before booking your end-of-lease inspection. 

You should read through your lease agreement, as some lenders require their car be repaired at an approved garage, otherwise, you may end up responsible for #

even more remedial costs if the repair isn’t up to scratch. 

Can You Extend A Lease And Keep Same Car? 

Speak to the finance company as soon as possible. Longer leases usually mean lower monthly payments. As such if you let them know well before the end of the term, they may be able to reduce your remaining monthly payments. 

Can You Get A Loan To Buy Your Leased Car? 

If you’re dead set on retaining ownership of your lease car, you may be able to buy it back, but even at three to five years old it will set you back a pretty penny. You could look into other methods of financing such as a bank loan, or even opt to extend the lease agreement allowing you to save up more cash to buy outright. 

Before committing to anything, speak to the lease provider to see how much they would charge for the car, compare this to other cars for sale using a site such as 

, inputting the mileage, damage, and age. 

 has been writing about cars for over seven years and writing for Bumper for over two, blending his passion for automobiles with a talent for storytelling.

Joseph has written about engineering and cars for Autozilla, Komaspec, and several engineering manufacturers. When he's not writing or tinkering with one of his five cars, Joseph dreams of owning an Alfa Romeo 33 Stradale.

What Happens At The End Of A Car Lease 

Mercedes Benz have built a name for themselves for reliability and longevity over their 141 years making cars, so you would assume they are a sure bet for a reliable used vehicle. 

However, even the best manufacturers have good and bad years, in this blog we take a look at the 9 most reliable used Mercedes-Benz cars on the UK market, and explain a little bit about what you get for your money. 

, the GL class Mercedes was their flagship luxury SUV. All models feature a 7 speed automatic transmission and 4MATIC 4 wheel drive. We’d recommend the 3.0 V6 diesel engine for its durability and efficiency. 

If more power is what you require, a 4.0 twin turbo diesel or a 4.7 Litre petrol engine are available, but only opt for these if you can live with sub 20 MPG figures! 2010 era GL350’s can be bought for around 

Despite sharing a platform and engine with the GL350 above, the M class is a good bit smaller, allowing for slightly easier parking and better fuel economy. Confusingly the modern M class is renamed as the GLE after 2011 after a legal dispute with BMW. 

 £3,500 for a leggy 2007 model, to over £10,000 for a 2012 onwards car.

 Whilst there isn’t much mechanically to differentiate between a post 2007 car has the newer facelifted bumpers. 

If you’re looking for a vehicle that is luxurious, on trend and good off-road, the G Wagon is probably your best bet. Considering it’s main rivals are probably products from Land Rover, the G wagon’s strong suit is its ruggedness and reliability. 

This reliability does come at a cost, though. For a mid 2010’s car - any older than 2008 and they are rather more utilitarian than luxurious - expect to pay in the region of 

 For a reliable powertrain we suggest the 3.0 Diesel V6 again, with the 7 speed G-Tronic 

Somewhat the gold standard for a full size luxury saloon car, the E-Class has been around since 1993, it is mentioned in nearly all saloon car reviews as being the benchmark for comfort, practicality and reliability. 

It’s no wonder then that it makes our list of most reliable Mercedes Saloons, in particular we’d recommended the E220 from 2008. This generation has the updated styling, more powerful 2.1 

engine, but the reliable 5 speed gearbox. An E-Class on less than 125,000 miles can be bought for a shade under 

If you're wanting the Mercedes feel, style and reliability but in a smaller package, the C class is perfect for you. It combines sharp styling with the bulletproof reliability found in the above-mentioned E-Class. 

Again, our pick is the 2.1 diesel engine, it’s track record for reliability and efficiency figures cannot be ignored, even if the larger 6 cylinder engines are slightly more refined. Surprisingly good condition C-Class’ are around the same price as the E-Class; a 2008 C-Class with the 7 speed auto box can be found on forecourts for 

Most Reliable Mercedes Hatchback and Estates 

In a drastic design and styling change from the first generation, the W176 (second generation) A-Class released in 2012 was a massive success with consumers. It’s modern proportions and styling made it a hit with younger drivers, as did the range of economical small engines making it a reliable choice. 

Whilst the smaller Renault supplied diesel engine is a good unit, we’d suggest the 1.6 petrol as it’s better suited to the car, giving it a more refined driving experience and a good bit more ‘poke’. Good examples of the Mercedes A200 from 2014 can be found for around

Need more boot space for the family pet, camping trips or tip runs? Mercedes makes their formidable E and C class saloons in estate versions too. The C-Class estate is a great pick, with later model years (2012 onwards) looking extremely stylish, even compared to modern estate cars. 

The same choice of engines is available as with the saloon, if you need efficiency on long drives, we’d say go for the C220 CDI again, if you don’t, or live inside the 

, the C220 2.1 petrol is a brilliant engine. 

gets you a tidy 2009 reg, that’s covered less than 100,000 miles. 

Given the vehicles we’ve covered above, you wouldn’t immediately think Mercedes was a big producer of sporty cars, but their AMG division is one of the most revered tuning departments in the world. In 2013 AMG turned their hand to the A-Class creating the A45 AMG. 

With 335hp it was more powerful than all of the competition at the time, and with 4 wheel drive and Mercedes’ excellent automatic gearbox it is an extremely capable hot hatch. Early 2014 Mercedes A45 cars with less than 90,000 miles on can be bought for around 

If you’d prefer a sports car to be the traditional low slung, 2 seater rear wheel drive setup, then the SL Class may be for you, the name SL is a throwback to the gorgeous Mercedes Benz 300 SL originally made in the 1950’s. The first car to feature Gullwing doors. 

Thankfully the SL class from 2003 to 2011 is much more reasonably priced at under 

for the 3.5L 7 speed automatic convertible. With 315bhp from the silky smooth V6 and some great luxury features such as the heated air scarf to keep you warm even with the top down. 

Service and Repair Your Mercedes Benz With Bumper 

As a consequence of their excellent engineering and reliability,

 Mercedes are generally more expensive to repair and service than other marques

. To help ease this, Bumper offers zero-percent finance on car repairs through our hundreds of 

has been writing about cars for over seven years and writing for Bumper for over two, blending his passion for automobiles with a talent for storytelling.

9 Most Reliable Mercedes To Buy

BMW are one of the most popular car brands in the UK, they can offer the perfect combination of efficiency, style and comfort that many drivers want. Thankfully they are also generally quite reliable, but which 

 is the most reliable and which should you buy used? 

We take a look into which BMWs are the most reliable, what to look out for and how much to budget.

Made from 1998 to 2006, the E46 generation of BMW 3 Series is renowned for its reliability, with a wide range of durable engine and gearbox combinations on offer. We’d suggest the M57 engine, a 3.0-litre diesel. 

If you’re considering an older BMW such as this, then make sure to check thoroughly for rust, as they can become susceptible at this age, particularly on the rear sub-frames. A good condition E46 330D can be bought for as little as £4,000, so it’s by far the most reliable BMW you can buy for under £5,000. 

Other than corrosion, the E46 generation enjoys a good reputation for reliability including electrical systems, 

. Prioritise service history over low mileage, the 6-cylinder engines are very durable if maintained. 

As one of the first marques to enter the 

 segment, BMW had certainly perfected the formula by 2011, when it released the facelifted E70 X5. We think it offers the best combination of modern styling, reliable engines and price. 

A car with under 100,000 miles can be bought for under £7,000, making it one of the most reliable BMW SUVs for under £10,000. 

For the best reliability, stay away from the 2.0 diesel, which is famous for timing chain failures at this age, instead opt for the 30D, which is the same engine as fitted to the E46 3 series mentioned above. 

If petrol is a necessity, a 3.0 litre inline 6 engine was made, which would be 

 so cheaper to drive into London, but will not be cheap to fuel, averaging less than 25 MPG. 

As the baby brother to the X5, the X3 is the natural next option, with the X1 being considerably smaller, and the X6 being considerably less practical with its sloping rear end. Whilst the X3 was available with both diesel and petrol engines, we’d suggest going for the 3.0i - the petrol. 

As the car is lighter and smaller than the X5, the fuel economy won't be as bad, but as both of the diesel options suffer the same timing chain mentioned earlier, we’d avoid them. A 2012 30i X3 can be bought for around £15,000. 

Most Reliable Used BMW Hatchback or Estates 

As BMW’s first hatchback, the 1 series marked a change from previous years for the German manufacturer, whilst reasonably slow to be accepted, the new shape introduced initially in 2004 took off and has been one of BMW’s most popular cars since. 

For a more modern looking car, with a reliable powertrain, we’d recommend the facelifted first generation, made from 2011 to 2013. Under the bonnet opt for the 2.0 or 3.0 petrol, with the latter being a rare sight nowadays. Avoid the 2.0 diesel after 2010. 

£4,000 gets you a tidy example of a 120i, with a manual transmission and an odometer reading less than 100,000. Most came optioned with leather seats, but the iDrive add-on is a nice to have rarity. 

Being the largest estate in BMW’s lineup, the 5 series as a good bit larger than the 3 series, so it’s perfect for those needing more boot space, it will also easily carry 4 adults, whereas the 3 series can be cramped for long journeys. 

Similar to the other diesel cars on this list, the engine of choice would be the 3.0 diesel, this era of 5 series usually uses a very robust 6 speed automatic gearbox, that delivers quite impressive smoothness and efficiency. 

For around £4,500 you can bag a 530D with under 125,000 miles and full service history. A lot of car for the money! 

Used by everyone from CEOs to heads of state, the 7 series has been the luxury saloon of choice for a number of years. A longer wheelbase option was available that could be fitted from the factory with armour plating. 

The F01 generation launched in 2008 now represents incredible value for money, with 2010 models up for sale for under £6,000. For that price, you get a powerful 3.0 

, 8-speed automatic gearbox and endless amounts of interior luxury including real wood grain and soft leather. 

When launched the 330Ci was often touted as the cheap M3, sharing some of its suspension and chassis components with the ultimate BMW sports car. Now in 2024, the price gap between the E46 330Ci and the E46 M3 is even larger. 

Featuring one of BMW's legendary engines, the buttery smooth straight 6 M54, the 330Ci boasts fairly modest power figures by today's standards, but the overall package of handling, finesse and reliability makes it one of the best choices for a reliable ultimate Driving Machine on the cheap. 

, even a nice, low mileage, well-kept 330Ci will only set you back around £4,000. 

After a string of other 2 door convertible sports cars, including the famous Z8 and Z3, both driven by James Bond throughout the 90’s, the Z4 was a toned-down continuation of the same philosophy. 

In 2003 the Z4 could be bought with the 3.0i M54, giving over 230 bhp in a lightweight roadster. With various creature comforts competitors such as the Audi TT and Mazda Mx-5 did not have, the Z4 is still a great all-round package. 

Today a later 2006 car with under 100,000 can be bought for less than £6,000. We’d suggest the 6-speed manual over the automatic, for both reliability and driving feel. 

If you’re facing a big repair bill for your BMW, 

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8 Most Reliable BMW Models In 2024 

Die 8 zuverlässigsten BMW-Modelle 2025

, tyres can be one of the largest costs after fuel. It’s tempting then to look into so-called “part-worn” tyres to save money. Is this a genuine money-saving trick, or do you get what you pay for? 

are second-hand tyres that have already been used on the road. They are often sold by smaller independent tyre fitters and are generally cheaper than new tyres. 

Some part-worn tyres come from breakers yards, where crash-damaged or scrapped cars are dismantled for parts. This only accounts for a small amount of the part worns sold in the UK, most come from continental Europe, specifically Germany. 

Also, part-worn tyres are shipped in from Germany en masse as tyres that are considered completely worn in Germany are still legal here. The legal limit for tread depth in Germany is 3mm, whereas in the UK it is 1.6mm.

The UK government has set rules for the sale of part-worn tyres, namely 

The Motor Vehicle Tyres (Safety) Regulations 1994

 if these rules are adhered to, then there is no reason why part-worn tyres could not be considered safe. 

Tyres are generally rated to last 6-8 years,

 so as long as they are under this age, and don’t show signs of damage, as per the government rules, they should be as reliable and safe as new tyres. However, it’s a common complaint that part-worn tyre sellers do not follow these rules. 

Statistical evidence shows that part-worn tyre shops often flout the rules on selling “part worns”. This 

 post, reports the findings of the DVSA and Trading Standards tests on part-worn tyre garages. 

The report does not look good on the standards of part-worn tyre shops, over 10% of the tyres checked were over 10 years old, and some had noticeable physical defects such as cuts, bulges or foreign objects in the tread. 

This is especially alarming as most tyre manufacturers recommend not using tyres past 8 years old, and the average part-worn tyre buyer is not likely to be able to inspect their tyres as well as the DVSA, with their expertise and dedicated facilities. 

Something noted in the DVSA/Trading Standards tests is the lack of indelible markings present on the tyres, all part-worn tyres must have “PART-WORN” marked on the outer face. 85% of the tyres tested did not have these markings. 

The legislation sets out the minimum condition tyres are to adhere to, but from our experience, there are a few other considerations to make before having back-street tyre shops fit part-worns to your car. 

Fasteners should be tightened to a specific torque level, set by the manufacturer, to ensure bolts don’t come loose, and that the material isn’t being damaged through over-tightening. 

Wheel bolts are no different, but many garages charging only £20-30 per tyre, don’t spend the time to tighten bolts properly. What’s worse is that many use high-powered impact guns instead, over-tightening the nuts and putting stress on the fastener. 

As well as torquing the wheel nuts properly, a wheel and tyre should be 

 whenever changed or repaired. This prevents vibration at high speeds, which can cause various knock-on effects. 

In our experience, some cheaper part-worn tyre shops do not bother to balance after fitting different tyres, which is something to look out for. 

Unless you can specify which exact tyre you want, from their stock, most part worn tyre places fit whatever tyre fits your car, and is on top of the stack, regardless of level of wear or 

It is not recommended to fit mismatched tyres on your car, and the consequences can be even worse if it is a 4-wheel drive vehicle. In heavy braking or cornering mismatched tyres can make the car unpredictable and seriously affect control. 

Wear level too can have a negative effect, when fitting new tyres to a 

 (e.g. changing both front tyres on a front-wheel drive car), they wear at even rates, with the rolling radius decreasing evenly across the axle. 

Part-worn tyres are likely to have differing levels of wear initially, and if the tyre model is different, this problem may worsen as one wears faster than the other. 

This can cause serious problems with your car's differential, as one wheel will be spinning faster than the other, all the time. This will be worse in cars with a Limited Slip differential, such as sports or off-road vehicles. 

The Department for Transport reported that 25% of the accidents on UK roads in 2022 were caused by poor or worn-out tyres. We don’t know how many of these were bought part-worn, but it does prove tyres have a big impact on road safety. 

You could have the reaction times of Lewis Hamilton, and the brakes from his Formula 1 car, but if your tyres are old, worn out or of poor quality, you are more likely to be involved in a road traffic collision. 

Make sure to inspect part-worn tyres thoroughly for damage, age and the performance of the tyre when new, as the stats above prove not all garages selling part-worn tyres can be trusted to do so.

Part-worn tyres are definitely cheaper than any new tyre, many places only charge £20 or so per tyre including fitting. The cheapest new tyres, even budget ones, average around £60. 

However, one important thing to remember is that part-worn tyres usually only have around 3mm of tread left, while new tyres have around 9mm. With the legal limit being 1.6mm, that's only 1.4mm of use left. 

So for £20, you are getting 15-20% of a tyre that may have only cost £60 new. That doesn’t sound like great value to us! 

There are part-worn tyre shops up and down the country, with many selling new tyres too, and some even offering further services such as tracking, exhausts or 

To have the best shot at getting tyres that are safe, find a garage with a good rating online, and that states it conforms to the British standards for used tyre safety. 

If you can get near to the tyres that are for sale - and in many part-worn tyre shops you can - try to inspect and advocate for the best tyres available, using the following criteria: 

Should I Buy Budget Tyres or Part Worn Tyres? 

We’re not oblivious to the cost of living crisis, and driving on safe part-worn tyres is better than prolonging your worn-out current tyres, but we would always encourage drivers to buy new, well-rated tyres where possible. 

The upfront cost is cheaper, most part-worns cost 30-50% of a new tyre. 

As the statistics show, many part worms sold in the UK do not meet the legal requirements, and as such their safety cannot be guaranteed. 

Whilst the initial cost of buying part-worn tyres is lower, you don’t actually get very good value for your money, furthermore they will need replacing much sooner than new tyres. 

Generally, the upfront cost of new tyres is the main factor, as part worms can be less than half the cost. 

Budget tyres can be bought for many smaller cars for less than £60 a corner, some more premium brands can cost up to £150 for the same size. 

Whilst budget tyres are a good option, and we’d probably lean towards that over risky part-worns, some budget tyres offer substandard levels of performance in both efficiency and braking/handling. 

One of the best alternatives to buying part-worn tyres is paying for your tyres in monthly payments. This way you get branded, well-rated tyres but don’t have to pay a large amount upfront. 

Split the cost of tyres into interest-free monthly instalments with 

. Choose from 1,000s of trusted tyre fitters and apply online before you visit. 

Part Worn Tyres: Are They Safe To Buy & Drive?

Audi vehicles have been a common sight on UK roads since their introduction to Blighty in 1965. They regularly reach the top 10 sales charts, with the most recent being the Audi A3 in 2024. 

But you don’t need to pay new car prices to experience the combination of German engineering and style that Audi provides. The used market is a wash with great deals, from small city cars to 

, but which of those are the most reliable? 

 is known as the 8V, and is the third generation in the series. It was offered not only in the commonly seen hatchback version, but also in a saloon and convertible body style.

Engine offerings include the 1.5 and 2.0 TFSI (

) as well as the 2.0 TDI engine. The latter is our pick, as used in many VW, Audi and 

 vehicles with great reliability scores. We’d recommend looking at 2015-era cars that generally sell for around £5,500. 

We consider this to be the most reliable 

 as it has the perfect combination of a tried and tested engine, without as many of the complexities of the larger more luxurious models, helping with overall reliability. 

The Audi A5 uses the same platform as the A4 saloon and estate (Avant) but is available with a larger 3.0 TDi engine. Whilst not suitable for everyone, this larger powerplant has a great track record for reliability if serviced correctly. 

What's more, the A5 gives that little bit more space than the A3, carrying 4 adults with a relatively large boot too. A 2016 A5 can be bought for around £9,000, a car of this age will be 

If you need even more space or just prefer the luxury of a larger more plus vehicle, the A6 Saloon may be just what you need. Available with the same 3.0 TDI engine the A5 received, it uses an even larger platform offering far more space inside. 

From 2011 to 2018 they were known as the C7 A6 and racked up good reliability figures. One reason might be that because the car costs at least £54,000 when new, owners are more likely to have kept up with the 

A6s offer great value, as despite their high sticker price when new, secondhand ones can be picked up for around £6,500. 

The A4 Avant is the smallest estate car Audi makes. The generation from 2008 to 2016 is known as the BK variant. Coming optioned with all the usual engine choices, from the 2.0 TFSI petrol to the 2.0 or 3.0 

Values have held relatively strong compared to the larger saloon models, partly due to the lesser number of Avants made, but a good condition 2015 car can still be bought for £7,500. 

If you’re looking for a more stylish vehicle, the black edition comes with larger wheels and no chrome trim, making it look a lot more modern, even though many of them are over 10 years old! 

From the front the A6 Avant looks just like the A6 saloon, but it offers that bit more passenger space over the A4, and substantially more boot capacity for carrying luggage, sports equipment or your pets. 

Available with both the 2.0 and 3.0 TDI engines, we think the 3.0 is the best bet, in part because the Avant weighs another 230kg more than the already chunky A6. With the smooth and powerful diesel engine, motorway journeys are refined and swift, with ample overtaking torque. 

Launched in 2008, the Q5 was the smaller brother to Audi's first SUV, the Q7. It was sold with multiple engine options including petrol and diesel variants ranging from 2.0 to 3.2 Litre, with the sporty SQ5 having a 3.0 Litre supercharged unit. 

Offering a higher driving position and extra comfort over the lower A5 saloon, the Q5 is aimed specifically at the luxury end of the SUV market. Prices when new were well over £45,000, but 6-year-old models can be found for £13,000. 

The Q7 was Audi’s first SUV, debuting in 2005 it shared many of its components with the VW 

, itself a burly substantial SUV. Over time the Q7 has developed into a luxury 

, featuring a plush leather interior and huge amounts of tech. 

Thanks to the large engine bay, the engine options range beyond the 3.0 TDI of the Q5, and some models came with a 6.0 Litre V12 Diesel. If you’re at all concerned about MPG or servicing costs, we would not recommend that version! Instead, the 3.0TDI V6 gives a good compromise between reliability and efficiency. 

As the first-generation cars are becoming a little long in the tooth now, we’d suggest getting a facelift model from 2010 to 2015 for a compromise between age, reliability and style. A 2012 car can be purchased for around £7,500. 

An icon of early 2000s car styling, the first Audi TT was a great combination of German reliability and sophistication, with the fun and dynamism of a 2 door sports car. Whilst the first generation “Type 8N” cars make great modern classics, we’d recommend a 2nd generation, made from 2006 to 2014. 

As we’re focussing on reliability, we’ve tended to suggest diesel engines so far in this list, but a diesel engine (although available from 2008) isn’t the best fit for a sports car. As such we’d recommend the fizzy 2.0 petrol turbo, as found in the hot Audi S3 and VW Golf GTI. 

Audi and VW term this engine the TFSI, meaning “Turbo Fuel Stratified Injection”. While these are generally a strong engine, they can be known to have issues with timing chains, so aim for lower mileage cars or ensure the timing chain has been replaced recently. 

Budget around £4-5,000 for a 2010-era car with under 90.000 miles. As they’re bought mainly for leisure, TTs of this age retain their value well. 

Using the same engine as the aforementioned Audi TT, the S3 is a hot hatch version of the A3, boasting impressive 0-60 and power figures for what was a small hatchback. The suspension is tweaked too from the original A3, with the car riding lower, wider and with bigger brakes. 

Engine reliability is very much the same as the Audi TT, with the 2.0 TFSI being relatively strong aside from a few common issues pertaining to timing chains and turbos. A well-maintained example though should see many miles of use. 

A 2010 car, a second generation “8P” S3 will set you back around £5,500. As with the TT, make sure to check the timing chain status and listen carefully for any rattles. 

Have Your Audi Repaired With Zero Interest Finance from Bumper 

German cars tend to be more expensive to repair, as their parts cost more and work can be more complex. If you have an expensive bill on the horizon, 

Joseph Law

Bumper Content Writer

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